Austria (2019) - A Few of My Favorite Things

Day 0 - Of Hugo & Irene and Flight Shenanigans

As you know, Cynthia and I are keen to travel once or twice a year. For 2019, we looked into going back to Switzerland, or even Ireland as well as new places like Amsterdam, Scotland, England, Sweden, and Norway. Scott's Cheap Flights and Next Vacay, two services I wholeheartedly recommend were showing some good flight deals.

That is when Hugo, Cynthia's cousin, who lives in Vienna, suggested we give Austria a try. We would be able to visit him and his wife and stay with them in Vienna for a few days. Once we agreed, I went into trip-planning-mode. The first thing to do was book a flight. Unfortunately, direct flights from Miami to Vienna are quite expensive at ~$800 per person.

Here's what I did: I searched every airfare search engine for flights, but the price was relatively stagnant. After a few days of fruitless searching, I mindlessly searched all flights into Europe from Miami - this resulted in a $325 trip from Miami to Paris. From there, I searched for flights from Paris to Vienna - this resulted in a $90 flight. When analyzing the schedules, the only caveat was a two-hour layover in Paris. We booked the two separate bookings; flying to Vienna for ~$415, as opposed to the ~$800 that it was usually going for. I thought of the risks, like delayed flights, having two different bookings, possibly missing the second flight, etc. In the end, the cost savings was too significant a factor. Also, if we missed our flight to Vienna, we wouldn't be terribly heartbroken to stay a night in Paris.

From here began the trip planning in earnest; after a lot of research and purchasing the Lonely Planet guide to Austria, I came up with an itinerary. You'll see this unfold in the days ahead.

Additionally, I decided that I would attempt One Bag Travel for this trip. This means I would only take one large backpack as my primary method of carrying my possessions from place to place: Knack Pack. I would also bring a small sling bag for city exploring: Aer Day Sling 2. And a packable daypack for hikes (packs to the size of a pear): Arcido Aro. This decision would force me to reevaluate what I take on trips and how I pack, in one word: minimalist. I want to feel the freedom and mobility of One Bag Travel, as well as test out the new merino wool clothing I'd been reading about. I will be writing a separate article about what I packed and why soon! Cynthia, though, is skeptical of traveling with one bag, so she will be using a rolling carry-on and the Wandrd Prvke backpack I reviewed a few months back.

After a few months, the day came, and we began our fifteen-day trip to Austria...

Day 1 - Of TSA Agents & Vienna Walking

Honestly, I was a little worried that my flight shenanigans were going to backfire because getting a boarding pass for our Paris to Vienna flight was a hassle. Austrian Air would not allow me to check-in, the site would throw up an error. Eventually, I was able to check-in through Air France's website, since they were the operating carrier. Keep this in mind when booking separate flights!

In Miami, things went smoothly except for when a TSA agent flagged my diabetes supplies for a more thorough inspection. After she looked through it, she asked what was in my Frio pack. A Frio pack is a pouch where a person can place insulin pens or vials into so that they remain slightly cold - cold enough so that it doesn't get damaged. The TSA agent asked me what it was, I explained. She proceeded to tell me that I need to freeze them next time. I told her that would damage the insulin, she said I was wrong. She refused to give me the bag until she full explained that I need to freeze my insulin because this pouch is not cold. I explained that it only needs to be chill, not cold. She said I was wrong. Eventually, she gave me my stuff.

The rest of the journey to Vienna went very smoothly. Traveling with one bag provides a sense of freedom and efficiency that I really enjoy. In Paris, though, we did enjoy some baked goods!

Once we arrived in Vienna, Hugo and Irene picked up us, and we took a taxi to their flat where we dropped off our stuff and headed into the city. Vienna is a major European city, but it's not crowded like one. Even though it was a Saturday at 3:00PM, the streets had a respectable number of people. We toured around the Universitat Wien (University of Vienna), Museum Quarter, saw the Opera House, perused the Volksgarden, and meandered around the Ring. The Ring (Ringstrasse) is a long circular thoroughfare where the city walls once stood. Franz Joseph I declared to have the walls torn down to create this boulevard.

The weather was perfect, the lighting was gorgeous. We made our way to Bangkok, a Thai restaurant - because you know we love to eat Asian food in European cities! I indulged in my first full course of carbs - Fried rice noodles with crispy duck. Worth it! Irene helped us with our German so we can get by a little.

Tomorrow we have some things planned. I ran my itinerary by Hugo, who says that it’s entirely doable! I am looking forward to sharing the story with you.

Day 2 - Of Vineyards & Wine Hikes

Once a year, in the outskirts of Vienna, the various vineyards host a wine hike. It just so happened we were in town for this event. After a tasty breakfast, we took the metro as well as a bus up towards the vineyards. Once there we were treated to panoramic vistas of Vienna itself, framed by lush rows of grapevines. We arrived somewhat early, so although there was a crowd, it wasn't too bad.

There are three pre-defined paths a person can take, resulting in many kilometers of walking and drinking. Thankfully Irene guided us through, where every half-mile, a winery had set up a Heuriger (wine tavern). Some of them looked like permanent installations, while others looked like makeshift food-truck style operations. One thing was shared between the three we visited: the wine was good, and the food was fantastic. The majority of the people on the trail and in these heurigers were locals. A word on this - German is a difficult language, even as Cynthia and I try to use simple phrases to order or to exchange pleasantries, we still feel out of our depth. The locals smile and smirk as we bumble our way through it. It's these small details that allow us to understand what it's like to be in a foreign place and not comprehend the customs, language, and people around us. It helps us to empathize with those who would feel the same way back home.

Together we slowly made our way back down to the tram, taking a lovely path that Beethoven is said to have walked. The weather was crisp, and the foliage had signs of turning for the fall, some in bright hues of yellow, while others red.

There is beauty all around us here. Vienna, although being another major metropolitan city, is a gem because it houses golden age style architecture and grandeur while being framed by rolling hills and lush countryside. The city itself is a marvel, even their garbage incinerator is a monument to artistic expression. Large, lofty buildings, palaces, museums, etc. are at every turn.

While on the hike, we had wine, a giant pretzel, boar(!) sausage, and an elderberry drink mixed with sparkling water. Once back in town we stopped at a coffee shop, L'Heiner where we drank Vianesse style coffee and cakes. Once more, we explored the city.

The sun was out, and when that happens in Vienna, Irene says it's almost obligatory to go outside. I am inclined to believe her because everywhere we went, the locals lounged around on blankets, on the grass, on benches, anywhere to just relax and be outside. At one point we came up to a park where hundreds of people were just enjoying the day.

Eventually, we made our way back home where Irene made us dinner, ending the night in a game of Carcassonne.

A note on the street sign below: I just like it. It’s a street sign, but the guy is fancy and wearing a fedora. Also Rathaus is literally town hall, and the area where Hugo and Irene live. Rathaus is a funny name, thankfully it has nothing to do with actual rats.

Day 3 - Of Sausage Hot Dogs, Belvedere Palace & Wiener Schnitzel

We started the day slightly late, enjoying the opportunities to sleep in a little - these opportunities have been few and far between over the last several months. The itinerary for today was simple: visit a few palaces, get a sausage sandwich, check out a bag store, and go have dinner at an authentic Austrian restaurant.

Once we headed out, Hugo guided us through parts of the city. We went through a quaint park, where someone had set up a grand piano for anyone to play. As we passed through, someone decided to sit at the keys and played - surprisingly they were quite good! Near this same spot was a large church structure, Hugo believed that they are no longer an active church, but instead served as a venue for concerts and events. What's interesting aside from the architecture, were large columns etched with the story of the cardinal who commissioned it.

We came across a large fountain near a monument to the Soviet soldiers who liberated Austria from the Nazis. An interesting side note - Austria is one of the only European countries that does not celebrate the day World War II ended, but instead, they celebrate the day the Allies left.

On our way, we stopped near the Vienna Opera House, where nearby is a hot dog vendor. This vendor is famous - lines form just to have a taste. When I say hot dog, I don't mean a small Ballpark frank, this was a literal foot-long bratwurst injected with cheese and wrapped in a french style baguette. Yes! So good.

From there, we traveled to Belvedere Palace, a sprawling estate with multiple buildings. Hugo took us through the back portion first, otherwise known as "the guest house." With such a designation, you would think it was a small mansion or even a house. No. This structure was a palace in its own right. The main feature between the guest house and the palace proper was the giant Baroque gardens featuring the typical trappings - large hedges, meandering walkways, lush flower beds, fountains, and statues.

The Belvedere Palace itself was the house of a General, who was also a Prince: Prince Eugene of Savoy. This prince was an honored hero of the empire for defeating the Turks. Now this palace was ginormous! Beautiful architecture is detailed with statues, gold inlay, large windows, and other features of Baroque architecture. We sat in front of the palace for nearly forty-five minutes, enjoying the weather and the views.

From here we went to Urban Tool, one of the only bag companies I heard of in Vienna. Using various modes of public transport we arrived. Although I really wanted to buy a bag or two, I didn't; I don't have space and don't need anything right now.

Afterward we headed back to the flat and relaxed, where Hugo and I got whooped in Fifa soccer online. I'd never played Fifa before, so I was clearly the weak link.

Our last stop of the night was Gmoa Keller, an authentic Austrian restaurant. Here Cynthia and I both indulged in some local treats. Cynthia had a pancake soup in beef broth, while I had a meat strudel soup. The main course was pork wiener schnitzel. This too was great but reminded both of us of "bistec empanizado" in Miami. Lastly, we had an apple strudel for dessert. It was an excellent meal, we left stuffed.

We ended the night in another rousing game of Carcassonne, where I lost, again.

Day 4 - Of Schonbrunn Palace & Pizza al Fresco

Today was a leisurely day. We started the day late and made our way to Schonbrunn Palace, the summer palace of the Hapsburg rulers. The history of this place spans over 300 years and is considered one of the most significant architectural, historical, and cultural monuments in the country. It has a whopping 1, 441 rooms - you know, it's just a quaint summer home - a zoo, several enormous and intricate fountains, a sprawling garden that is encompassing, and a greenhouse. We walked the grounds for hours, and only really scratched the surface.

The grounds feature large hedges, gazebos, tree-lined walkways, intricate flower beds, hidden alcoves, and so much more. Really, one could spend an entire day just wandering the grounds themselves. Then when you get tired, sit down by one of the fountains. Which one? Oh, maybe the faux-Roman ruins, or perhaps the fountain depicting mythological gods, or the fountain with an Egyptian obelisk. Funny story about this last one, the obelisk was a gift to the Hapsburg's, and on the obelisk were Egyptian hieroglyphics. It turns out that after scientists were able to decipher hieroglyphics, it was determined that the images on this obelisk were just gibberish.

Behind the mythological fountain, a long meandering pathway goes up the hill to a large terrace where one can sit and enjoy a delightful melange while observing the folk below.

We didn't go into the palace, although it would have been impressive to see, we were more interested in the exterior features. The Hapsburgs were one of Europe's most influential families whose ties go far beyond just Austria.

After a few hours, we left Schonbrunn and sat for a little coffee and cake at Konditorei Oberlaa. Later taking an extended break back at the flat.

Later in the night, we ate outside on what seemed to be the patio of a looming church. An excellent Italian restaurant had set up across the street, and when the weather is good, patrons can eat out in the courtyard. The weather was perfect, and the food was delicious. It was a joyful evening, where both Cynthia and I felt happy being in the moment and enjoying the environment, the people, and the food.

As a side note - Around this time of year, the Viennese are always saying, "Oh no, this will be the last day of good weather." They feel they need to take advantage of whatever good weather comes their way because once winter starts, they won't get a day of good Sun until May - according to the Viennese.

Tomorrow we bid Hugo and Irene farewell for now, as we are headed onto the road trip portion of our journey.

Day 5 - Of Castles and Roads

Cynthia and I were on our own for the first time since arriving in Austria. Hugo was kind enough to guide us to where we could get the train to the airport and our car rental.

Once in the car, we made our way to Krems an Der Donau, which is considered to be the starting point of the Wachau valley. This valley is a verdant and outrageously picturesque stretch of land along the Danube river. It's this valley that many of Austria's vineyards call home. We walked around Krems, admiring its old charm, eventually stopping by a small coffee shop for, you guessed it, coffee and cake.

We drove from Krems towards Durnstein, home to one of the largest wineries in the region, Domane Wachau. Look, I am not a wine connoisseur, but when you're in wine country, you get a bottle. So we stopped off and got a bottle of Riesling for later.

From Durnstein, we drove to Spitz, where we planned to visit old castle ruins. After a little bit of exploring, we found the path to the castle. This path took us through a small sliver of a forest, and around various elevated vineyards. Then rising from the hill, was Burgruine Hinterhaus. Burg meaning castle, ruine meaning ruins, Hinterhaus meaning Hinterhaus. Climbing the stairs, we couldn't help but wonder what it must have been like to stand on those same steps during this castle's heyday. Watching the people come and go, do their jobs, and just living their lives. We climbed up as far as we could go, poking around the old ruins, and spying our panoramic views of the Danube and surrounding fields of perfectly lined grapevines.

After a quick walk back, we then made our way to Stift Melk. I had heard this was a must-see attraction, and as we drove nearer, I could see why. Stift Melk sits on a hill overlooking the city of Melk, it's an imposing edifice that shines from miles away. Once we arrived, we could see why. This benedictine abbey is a monument to luxury, gold, architecture, and art. Everywhere you look, it's just beautiful. The paint is bright, the grounds and buildings are clean and orderly. Gold in-lay details various fixtures, a marble balcony is a key feature. Although a religious institution, Stift Melk reminded us of Belvedere or Schronbrunn Castles. We took in some sights, but most indoor features were closed off unless we were willing to pay for expensive tickets. We declined.

Lastly, we drove to Schloss Schallaburg, a large castle structure with a large garden near a forest. Schloss Schallaburg is a fascinating place, the castle looks to have been pieced together from various castles or edifices. Schallaburg is modern-looking, while also pieced together with brick and mud, and another part looks straight out of a Spanish hacienda. The place still has a lived-in feeling; at any moment, peasants and nobles were about to arrive and go about their daily duties. We took in the sights and stumbled upon an excellent photography exhibit as well. It was definitely worth the entrance fee. I wish we could have stayed longer and enjoyed a proper tour.

At last, we made our way to Steyr, a storybook town which a quiet and quaint charm. Our AirBnB was easy to find, and once we dropped off our things, we went and had Mexican food. Yes, that's right, while in Austria we went to a Mexican restaurant called Tex-Mex. There is something odd about ordering tortilla chips and quesadilla using my best German slang. "Uns Cola Light, Uns Tortilla Chips, und quesadilla, bitte, Danke."

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will be hiking in Kalkapen National Park, and eventually landing in Halstatt, the pretty town on a lake that most people think about when they think of Austria.

Day 6 - Of Kalkalpen, Schiederweiher, and Hallstatt

We departed the quaint town of Steyr and made our way to Kalkalpen National Park, a vast spread of forests, meadows, and mountains. I had chosen what I perceived to be a relatively easy hike. It was a "themed" hike, called "On Nature's Trail" or Natur-Spuren.

Once we were given general directions to the trailhead, we started the hike. There was an initial climb up a steep incline, but once we crested the hill, we were greeted by a dense forest. I was bamboolzed, or maybe we just came at the wrong time of year because I was under the impression this was an easy-peasy trail that was easy to follow. Nope! Trail markings were few and far between, and the path itself was narrow and in some points, challenging to make out. Was it still beautiful? Yes! Indeed, yes!

We came across several hunting perches, making us wonder what type of game was lurking in the woods. At one point, Cynthia stopped in her tracks and pointed down to a small fire salamander, who then slowly made his way to a nearby hiding spot. As we continued the trail, we saw a few more. We later learned that these salamanders are rarely seen during the day, but mainly at night.

After a couple of hours, we double-backed to the car seeing absolutely no one during the entire time we were hiking. Unfortunately, we didn't do the complete circuit as we were short on time, and dealing with the path was too much effort.

We then made our way to Schiederweiher, a pristine lake located near the Salzkammergut region. We hiked our way to the lake and enjoyed a nice walk around it, seeing the reflection of a nearby mountain.

Austria is beautiful like Switzerland is beautiful. It's clean, and pristine, with a sense of majesty to its nature. Today alone, I drove about four hours or so, and never bored of the panoramic landscapes, the changes of scenery, and the towering mountains that melt into rolling meadows and back.

Lastly, we drove a long way to our home for the next two nights, Hallstatt, an incredibly touristy, yet jaw-droppingly gorgeous town that sits on the shores of the Hallstattersee. After we settled in, we hit the city to get some food. Little did we know how what an absolute tourist hotspot this is. It wasn't packed, per se, but there were people everywhere. What's funny is that during our trip thus far, I had not seen many Asian tourists, to be fair, I had not seen any American tourists either. All the Asian tourists are in Hallstatt, about 95% of all the people we saw were Asian. The rest were non-English Europeans, and several Indians.

We ate at a shore-side cafe, where I indulged in more schnitzel, and Cynthia had "cheese and noodle salad," which was really just Mac'N'Cheese.

Our hotel, the Gastof-Hirlatz, is about a ten-minute walk from the city, but offered free parking. The accommodations are nice, nothing amazing, but comfortable - that's what I really care about.

Tomorrow we have a packed itinerary! Salt Mines, Ice Caves, and something called Five-Fingers.

Day 7 - Of Salzwelten, Dachstein, & Hallstatt Wandering

We began the day early, heading to the Saltzwelten. Hallstatt's fortune was initially made in the salt mining business, and archaeological remains have shown that as soon as the bronze age, inhabitants were mining salt - including everyone in their family, toddlers too.

Once we were outfitted in overlarge mining outfits, we were shown into the mine. What greeted us was a fifteen-minute walk through a small tunnel that went ~300 meters into the mountain. Immediately my claustrophobic anxiety kicked in. "But Jovanni, I didn't know you were claustrophobic!" You might say, but refer to my Chu Chi Tunnel experience, and you'll see the genesis of this anxiety.

The tour included several historical lessons, and information regarding how salt was mined, and how it is currently extracted. It was all pretty fascinating. A fun part of the tour was going down a wooden slide to reach the floor or "horizontal" below us. At one point, we were ~350 meters into the mountain and about 900 meters below the top of it. Just writing that statement makes me a little anxious. Sorry, mom!

The standout display was when they showed us a short documentary about what is possibly the oldest staircase ever found. Miners found this wooden staircase, and tests have determined that it was constructed in the bronze age.

After the tour, we went into town briefly for a snack, then headed to Dachstein, where we planned to visit the World Heritage Spiral, and the Finger Fingers platform. Unfortunately, upon arrival, the paths to both those attractions were closed because it was way too icy. It was the first time that we would see snow up close during our time here. We made the best of it and enjoyed the sites up top.

Lastly, we made our way back home, where we walked up and down the length of Hallstatt, enjoying the sites, and sounds. We then found a small sign pointing to a restaurant on the lake. Following the sign lead us to a group of tables right on the lakeside! Here we had good food and enjoyed how ridiculous this whole thing is. We were sitting lakeside, on a dock, eating Austrian food, surrounded by mountains on all sides, thousands of miles from home.

Additionally, we were both tickled by how tourists around us treated their time here as a fashion shoot. People don't take pictures of the beauty around them, they take pictures of themselves amid the beauty around them. This includes high-fashion clothing of all sorts. We walked among thousands of instantaneous Instagram posts.

Tomorrow we leave Hallstatt for Salzburg, where we rejoin Hugo & Irene for sightseeing and Carcassonne!

Day 8 - Of Rainy Mondsee & Rainy Salzburg

We departed idyllic Hallstatt under the rain, with the plan to visit the Schafbergbahn Railway that is at St. Wolfgangsee. Unfortunately, the storm canceled the train schedule for the window we would be able to go. Instead, we made our way to a small park near the northern edge of Mondsee. While maneuvering the ever-changing, and winding roads of the countryside, I was struck by the enormity of one of the lakes we'd passed, Attersee. The waters were in a tumult because of the wind - it looked like an ocean. Yet, here we were driving mere feet away from the edge as the waters butted up against the road.

Once we arrived in Mondsee, it was pouring down, so I braved the cold wetness to take a few pictures of the lakeside. That's all I could do because the rainfall was heavy, and the water was freezing. With that done and some time to spare, we visited a small coffee shop called Backerei Frank Berger.

Half an hour later, we picked up Hugo & Irene from the Salzburg central train station and made our way to the AirBnB. The place is modern and seems newly remodeled, probably one of the nicer AirBnBs we've stayed in. One downside, though, it does not have a shower curtain - making it difficult to shower without spilling water all over the place. This isn't uncommon in our travels through Europe - I am not exactly sure why.

The city center of Salzburg is a beautiful chaos of people, buildings, monuments, statues, castles, stores, and random pop-up markets. We saw where Mozart was born, and where he and his family spent a few years. We saw Mirabell Castle, with its intricate gardens, fountains, marble(!) balcony, and small concert venue. It doesn't have the ostentatious nature of the Hapsburg palaces, although one could argue that the marble balcony and scores of marble child-angels prove otherwise. Mirabell was built by order of Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau as his pleasure palace for him and his mistress. You read that right. I laughed at the idea of a person, an Archbishop no less, building a giant estate to keep hide mistress.

We then made our way up to Festung Hohensalzburg via a funicular. The fortress sits atop a hill overlooking the city, where we were treated to breathtaking views of Salzburg. This place is massive, so much so that we couldn't find our way out. Momentarily, we decided we would live here.

Once we did find our way out, we strolled the streets and perused stories, and art, and murals. Salzburg is a beautiful city. Unfortunately, it rained on us on and off the entire time. This was expected - As Hugo said: "Ah Salzburg, you never disappoint us."

The sunset on the city and we finished the day by having burgers and walking back to the AirBnB.

I finally won a game of Carcassonne!

Day 9 - Of GeoCaching & The Sound of Music

The four of us left the AirBnB about mid-morning after a very Austrian breakfast courtesy of McDonald's. Since Hugo & Irene needed to catch a train immediately after our Sound of Music tour later, they decided to store their gear in the train station locker.

The walk to the train station took us into the more residential, more local parts of Salzburg. The morning was quiet, and the weather was perfect - crisp, with the sun shining through light clouds. The path to the train station, and then to the city center took us through a pleasant footpath along the river. It was a peaceful and enjoyable walk, mainly because we were able to see the locals walking their dogs, enjoying the excellent weather, jogging, and playing in playgrounds with their children.

As we neared the city center, we began talking about GeoCaching. If you're not familiar with this term, I'll explain - or you can visit the site HERE. Cynthia and I had first heard of this game back on a cruise a few years ago when our table mates would GeoCache on every island we visited. Essentially there is a mobile app that will tell you where people have hidden something somewhere around you. Some caches require solving a riddle, some caches are multi-step, some caches are challenging to get to. In the end, once you acquire the cache, you log your name and date in a log sheet in the cache and register it on the app. One of the most exciting caches we've heard of involves taking an item from one cache and taking it someplace else, allowing the owner of the cache to see where their item has traveled too. Really good.

Why did I spend a paragraph describing GeoCaching? Because for the next two hours, we went around Salzburg, finding GeoCaches. In total, we found three caches: one on the footbridge connecting old and new Salzburg, where thousands of padlocks have been placed; think the love bridge in Paris. It took us a bit, but with some help from the app, Hugo was able to locate the small bronze lock among literal thousands of other locks. We opened it and revealed a small cylinder with the log scroll. I then found a GeoCache along the trellised walkway in Mirabel Gardens, where the Von Trapp children in The Sound of Music skipped and danced through. And lastly, we sound the third cache behind the information desk at Mirabell Palace. It was a lot of fun!

Once done, we made our way to the tour bus for our Sound of Music Tour. Our guide was a chipper German woman who lived in Ft. Lauderdale for twenty years, but then moved to Austria (good move). As we drove, she gave us the history of the movie concerning the real-life story of Maria, Captain Von Trapp, and his children. For instance, all indoor scenes of the movie were filmed on a sound stage in Los Angeles. All outdoor scenes were filmed on location. The initial shot of the movie, where Julie Andrews is twirling around in a meadow isn't even in Austria, it's in Germany. Additionally, the scenes outside of the house, like the back yard, were filmed on two separate locations, shots featuring the patio and the lake were films at Schloss Leopoldskron, which is now a hotel. All shots where the actual building was shown, were filmed at Frohnburg Palace.

We visited the location of the gazebo, where several scenes were shot. In a hilarious bit of coincidence, we were taken to Mondsee - remember that place yesterday where I couldn't see the lake because it was pouring rain? Yep, we parked ten feet away from the parking lot where I parked the day before. Mondsee is outright beautiful, so it was nice to visit with better weather. The ducks were still indifferent to me. The reason for our visit here was to see where they filmed the wedding scene between Maria and Captain Von Trapp (spoilers!)

Lastly, we made our way back to Mirabell Palace, where our guide showed us the fountain and gardens where the "Do Re Mi" song scenes were filmed. All in all, it was a lovely tour. We were happy to have gone on it.

With time running out on Hugo & Irene to make their train, we unanimously decided to return to Burgerista. So let me recap; in our time in Saltzburg, we have gone to a burger place twice, an Italian place, and had McDonald's for breakfast: we're doing it wrong. Not really, Burgerista is very good. We bid Hugo & Irene farewell and made our way back to the AirBnB.

Tomorrow we make our way to Zell Am See, which Irene has described as being "posh." Pinky up, my friends.

Day 10 - Of Pizgaur Lokalbahn & Hohe Tauern National Park

Just about every major trip we've done, from Ireland, Iceland, Switzerland, Vietnam, etc. has a day where we take it easy; we don't do much. Today was that day for us.

Salzburg was rainy all night, and even after we loaded the car to head out. We had initially planned to visit another ice cave, Eisriesenwelt, but based on the weather and some other variables, we decided against it. Instead, we landed on visiting the Hohe Tauern National Park exhibit. To get there, we would board the Pizgaur Lokalbahn, a regional train that runs from Zell am See to Krimml and back.

Once we arrived at our hotel in Zell Am See, The Tirolerhof, we were greeted by that "posh" feeling Irene told us about. This is a skiing town for sure, you could see it in the decor, in how the seating is placed, in how the hotel is configured. They're in their low season right now, but as we walked around the hotel, we could almost see this place packed with tons of people lugging ski equipment, in large jackets, hearing the whiff whiff sound of ski pants over the din of multiple languages being spoken loudly.

After a seven-minute walk, we made it to the train; an incredibly pleasant ride along green meadows and pastures, mountains, and small towns. Eventually, we stopped at Mittersil, where after a brief ten-minute walk through the village, we arrived at the nature exhibit. We decided to give the exhibition a visit because tomorrow I will be driving down the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, which cuts into this particular park.

Here, we were greeted by expertly done displays on the different animals that inhabit one of the largest national parks in all of Europe. Included were presentations on different minerals and ores, how the mountains were formed, the geological nature of the park, how glacial melt and reformation has occurred over millions of years. There was even a 360-degree panoramic theatre showcasing different locations in the park. All of it made us excited, even more so, for the drive tomorrow.

Once we left the exhibit, we made our way back to the train station and back to Zell Am See. Like I said, a sweet, little, relaxing day with not much chaos or running around.

Tomorrow will be a different story, we are tackling the entirety of the Grossglockner Road and taking multiple stops for the view of the mountains and the national park, then driving it all the way back. This is one of the highlights I was most looking forward to on this trip. Brace yourself for pictures.

Day 11 - Of The Großglockner High Alpine Road

Looking back on today; today is one of the best days I've ever had while traveling. We drove down and up the Großglockner High Alpine Road, a road that cuts through the Hohe Tauern National Park that I wrote about yesterday. The route goes from Bruck all the way to the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Hohe Visitor Center in the shadow of the Großglockner Mountain itself, this last point is at an elevation of 7,772 ft (2,369 meters). We did explore a side trail up to the Edelweißspitze viewpoint at 7,996 ft (2,428 meters). All this is done along route 107.  

The morning began foggy, lending it an air of mystery as the fog rolled through the trees and down the sides of the mountains and hills. Almost immediately, as we began our ride, there were breathtaking vistas and panoramas to appreciate and photograph. Soft meadows of green with cows, a lone mountain peak shrouded by fog, and a clump of forest shone with rays of the sun.  

We came to the Wild Park Ferleiten, where we saw goats, alpacas, sheep, and rams. I really wanted to explore the park, but we decided not to because a round trip through the park was about 90 minutes, and this was the first(!) stop of the journey.  

From here on out, we continued from stop to stop, pulling the car off to the side of the road to take in the magnificent beauty of our earth. The excitement of being able to experience this splendor was made a bit more exciting because of the fantastically fun driving the road has to offer. Großglockner twists and turns over precipices, then for good measure add about 52 hairpin turns, not to mention tons of elevation gain and loss (sorry mom!). It's never really dangerous, but the driving is not for the faint of heart as roads can sometimes be narrow, especially the path leading up to the Edelweißspitze viewpoint. 

Restaurants and rest stops are plenty, and there are tons of turn off points where you can take a breather, grab a bench, and breath in the high alpine air.  

In our time driving to and from the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Hohe Center, we experienced fog, rain, hail, overcast, bright sun, lush forests, meadows, valleys, mountains, snow-covered peaks, rocky terrain, fields of blanketed snow, and a glacier. Oh, and I asked a goat to "say hello to his mother for me." If I could, I'd ride it again tomorrow. Also, a good soundtrack is wholly recommended.

The majesty of this place cannot be overstated.  

Once we returned from our breathtaking journey, we made our way to authentic Austrian food at a nearby restaurant, Steinerwirt, where I had roast duck, and Cynthia had goulash.  

Tomorrow we depart from our little haven in Zell Am See, where we plan to visit Wild Park Aurach and then Krimml Waterfall. Lastly, we drop off our car in Innsbruck, signaling the closing number to this journey.  

Day 12 - Of Wildpark Aurach & Krimml Waterfall

The moment I heard about a park where you could walk alongside animals, I was sold. Wildpark Aurach was immediately put on our itinerary. The drive to the park was about an hour, and once we left Zell Am See proper, the scenery turned rural. One lane roads winded along hills and mountains, through tunnels and over valleys.

A note on driving in Austria: Just about any time I get in the car, I am driving for 50 minutes or more. Yet, driving is never dull. The roads are just plain fun to drive, a real treat if you enjoy driving, with their multiple curves, hairpin turns, inclines, tunnels, and other road features. Add onto those features the absolute beauty of this place: spying out a valley as you come out of a turn, exiting a tunnel, and being greeted by a snow-capped mountain, looking over a cliff-side and seeing a churning lake, watching storm clouds spill-over hills to threaten the village below. It's been a delight driving here.

Wildpark Aurach is precisely what I had imagined it would be. It's an animal sanctuary where visitors could walk alongside the animals, or see many animals in an open range. We saw deer, goats, sheep, llamas, alpacas, lynx, yaks, pigs, rabbits, several different types of birds, donkeys, and other animals. Some were sectioned off from the visitors, like the lynx and rabbits, but others, like the goats, sheep, deer, etc. were free to roam, and roam they did.

I talked to a goat, like I do. Also, in our walk, we heard the loud honks of geese. Once we arrived near their area, we realized that these four geese just yell at anyone who walks by. It was hilarious, especially if you imagine that they have English accents and are just yelling at people to "oy, oy, move on!" Going to Wildpark Aurach was well worth the time, we loved it.

We then drove to Krimml Waterfall. After a short walk, we made it to the mighty falls, blanketing the area in a fine mist. Krimml Waterfall is surrounded by a lush forest, giving it such a wonderful atmosphere coupled with the slope of the mountain behind it. After a brief hike around the falls and taking a few pictures, we headed back onto the road, anticipating a storm and two hours more of driving to Innsbruck.

We saw the storm clouds come over the mountains and settle in front of us, right above our destination. The drive was pleasant, we both appreciated these vistas as much as possible as we realized we'd soon be back driving the flat roads of Florida.

The hotel we are staying in was built in the 1400s, and it is said that Mozart may have stayed here based on a possible mention of the hotel in a letter he wrote. The building is right in the middle of town. Innsbruck is a vibrant city, a vibrating mix of old and new. Out of all the towns we've been to, this one has the "hippest" vibe. It's almost 10:00PM here, and still, there's the noise of passerby and people enjoying a night out, right outside of our hotel window. What a cool town, I wish we could stay a day longer.

Tomorrow we take a business class train all the way back to where this all started Vienna. Staying one more night with Hugo & Irene before heading to Paris for a night.

Day 13 - Of Innsbruck’s Colored Houses & Business Class to Vienna

Remember how last night I was very enthused by how people were still having a good time at night? Yeah. Those people are jerks - I am not sure where the bar or club was, but people were laughing and carousing until about 4:00AM! Take me back to Zel am See!

Today was a pretty relaxed day. We woke up and took a walk around Innsbruck, taking in the sites and getting some final Austrian baked goods. Afterward, we took a stroll by the colored houses of Innsbruck, a row of neatly painted houses across the river from the old city.

Around 11:00AM, we made the walk to the train station, where we waited for our train back to Vienna. For this particular leg of the journey, I had booked reserved seats in the business class section. I am glad we did because this train was packed! The seats were comfortable and spacious, with outlets and space for luggage and things.

Unfortunately, I misread the diagram when booking the seats, and we ended up with an older person facing us. She didn't speak English, and she didn't talk to us. In fact, she didn't do anything during the entire four and a half-hour ride! The only thing she did was occasionally open a small paper notepad and would handwrite little notes in it. She'd look around, look at us, and write. Or, I would do something or Cynthia would do something, or we would say something to each other, and she would write something down in her notepad. Look, it is probably wholly innocuous, but it was still weird.

Once we arrived in Vienna, Hugo met us at the station, and we made our way back to their place. There we had delicious Indian food and played a board game called Instanbul - Super fun!

Tomorrow we make our way to Paris for a night before heading home. I am not a fan of that latter part.

Day 14 & 15 - Of Paris & Overweight Baggage

The last two days were a blur, here goes:

Irene was kind enough to accompany Cynthia and me to the train station to catch the S7 train to Vienna Airport. Both her and Hugo were excellent hosts! Once the train rolled in, we said our good-byes and boarded.

Once we arrived at VIE, we made our way to the security checkpoint, but unfortunately, Austrian Airlines has set up their own little inspection where they DEMAND to weight every piece of luggage. Austrian Airlines only allows 8kg of carry-on baggage, which translates to about 17lbs. My Knack Pack, which was the only bag I had with me, came in at about 8.5kg, while Cynthia's luggage came in at 10kg. The weight-police refused us entry unless we paid 40 euros to check in Cynthia's bag. It was frustrating, annoying, and quite frankly doesn't make much sense since the difference between allowed and not allowed in this case is 5lbs.

We fumed for a little bit but got over it. A few hours later, we landed in Paris. During the flight, we had decided to take public transportation into the city since a taxi or Uber would have been about $60. The transportation system in Paris is comprehensive but confusing - at least when relating it to the information we were getting from Google Maps. A transfer was required from RER B, to RER C. We ended up on the wrong platform because the station signage did not correspond at all to what we were seeing on the app. Thankfully, I was able to ask an information officer, and they pointed us in the right direction.

The walk to our AirBnB was absolutely lovely. Paris was buzzing with activity and people. The sun was partially set, and the weather was crisp, but not cold. As we neared the AirBnB, we turned a corner on to the main street that would lead us to our side road. There between two rows of French architecture stood the Eiffel Tower, painted with a hue of gold from the sun. This really is an enchanting city.

Our AirBnB was a cozy studio with a lofted bed - perfect for our purposes. We dropped off our bags and immediately went back onto the street, stopping at a bakery for real French pastries - I had an almond croissant while Cynthia had a chocolate croissant. From there, we bee-lined it to the Eiffel Tower.

The site of the Eiffel Tower was vibrating with crowds of people, those waiting to go into the tower itself, people taking pictures outside, men selling cheap souvenirs, and people sitting on a finely manicured field just enjoying the evening. After a few photos, we sat on the grass with the rest of the people, and just enjoyed the moment we were in - In Paris, together, at the feet of one of the world's most iconic monuments, just enjoying the sights and sounds. It ended up being a beautiful moment for us.

From the tower, we walked towards the Arc de Triomphe, which was also surrounded and buzzing with people. This lead us towards Avenue des Champs-Élysées on our way to a small little bistro we had made a reservation for.

Although highly rated, Le Sens Unique is a hole in the wall with about ten tables. The restaurant was exactly what we wanted. I had duck breast with a potato au gratin that had pieces of duck inside - fantastic! Cynthia had pork Filet Mingon in pasta.

From there, we made our way back to the AirBnB. We needed to wake up early to get an Uber to the airport. Paris was beautiful, charming, and just as romantic as I had remembered it from way back in 1999.

In the morning, we got an Uber to the airport, and to make a long story short, Air France also gave us issues with our carry-on, saying it was too heavy. It appears European airlines are really cracking down on baggage weight. Again, it was frustrating.

The flight to Atlanta was great, but we only had about a one-hour layover to go through border patrol, get Cynthia's bag from the carousel, go through security, and make it to our gate. With the Mobile Passport app, we breezed through customs. Then, with TSA pre-check, we breezed through security. We made it to our gate with ten minutes to spare. So what did we do? We went to Popeyes and got biscuits!

After a few hours, we found ourselves back in Miami. Cynthia's parents kindly picked us up. Shortly after that, we opened the door to our apartment, officially ending our wonderful, beautiful, fantastic, and memorable journey. It was such a great trip, we can't wait for the next one.

A special thanks to Hugo & Irene for being such gracious hosts, tour guides, and travel companions. Also a special thanks to our parents for dropping us off and picking us up from the airport, and for the kind gifts they gave us before the trip.